We didn't feel that the Winter weather back in the British Isles had been harsh enough! To rectify this we've travelled up to Arctic Norway; the Lofoten Islands to be precise. We've been here and written about Lofoten many times before and so I won't repeat myself. We just wanted to experience these Islands in all their frozen glory!
I left the Isle of Man nearly a month ago. Initially I found myself as far south in Scotland as it possible to go, right up next to the English border. Now, and unexpectedly, I am at the very top of Scotland, as far north as it is possible to venture whilst still remaining on the UK mainland. The photographs above were taken today in Sutherland, just west of Tongue. It was pretty enough in the border country, but nothing can compare to the desolate, harsh beauty of the north coast, especially on a cold crisp day such as today. This is the place to come if you really do want to get away from it all. It would be very easy to meet no one and simply enjoy the absolute silence which can be experienced here. When I wasn't enjoying a bit of quiet I was staring at the simply perfect waves rolling in at the entrance to Tongue Bay. I didn't bring my kayak and so I couldn't take advantage.
Quite often whilst we are playing in the Isle of Man Calf Sound tidal races, people watch from the slopes just below the cafe. I often wonder what they must think of Ian, Jess and myself playing around in the white water. I have been "told off" before now just as I'm about to float off into the Sound for paddling in such "dangerous currents". Quite often people take photos of us, but it is unusual for them to be forwarded on. Hence, it was great to receive an email from Shane Stigant who sent me about 20 superb pictures he'd taken, having read the website address from the hull of my kayak. Many thanks to Shane, and I'll be posting more his stunning photographs on the site over the next week or so.
I'm working away in Scotland again. The hospital I'm based at is disturbingly far from the sea. That means no kayaking for a few weeks. It's probably just as well that I'm away. Work has begun on the new wing of my house which will ultimately incorporate a games room, gymnasium and wet room. All that means that 5 kayaks had to be squeezed into my living room and kitchen. I like kayaks but not enough to sit inside one and watch TV. So being in Scotland is probably for the best, especially when you can walk up to places like the frozen Loch Skeen shown above. I didn't quite dare to venture out onto the ice but it looked solid enough. I came across this walk unexpectedly and I wasn't equipped with a camera. The photos above were taken with an iPhone! The camera on the iPhone comes in for a lot of criticism but I don't think these came out too badly. I do think that the right camera makes a difference. The tidal race pictures which feature on this blog so regularly are taken with a little water proof Pentax Optio W60 . They usually come out reasonably well, all be it with a lot digital retuning. I was recently sent some stunning photographs of Ian, Jess and myself paddling in the races taken from an elevated position using a high quality digital SLR camera. I hope to feature them on the site in the next few weeks.
On Saturday as Ian, Jess and myself paddled down to the monstrously savage tidal races at the Calf, the sea temperature was about 7 degrees C. The air temperature was less at about 4.5 degrees C. Water conducts heat about 25 times more rapidly than air and immersion in cold sea water can be rapidly fatal. Survival at 7 degrees C sea temperature is about 1 hour. Of course, wearing the correct immersion clothing can markedly prolong this. Neoprene full immersion suites can prolong the survival time for up to, but not a guaranteed, 24 hours. We all use Kokatat full dry suites with fleece liners underneath. The dry suite itself will provide virtually no insulation and the fleece undergarment is essential. Unfortunately, this is not the end of the story as up to 75% of body heat can be lost through the head alone. Factor in some failed roles and some failed re-entry and roles and without head protection survival time is markedly shortened. There was always a good chance of rolling yesterday and we were wearing neoprene or aquatherm head hoods. This gear is not the same as a full neoprene survival suite, and survival time in these temperatures would be much less than 24 hours.
We seem to have fallen into a pattern. At spring tides we play the tidal races at the Sound, and at neaps we paddle the 10 mile round trip to Chicken Rock Lighthouse from Port Erin, Isle of Man. It was neap tide on Saturday and so Jess and I made our way beyond the Calf of Man, and on a further mile out to sea to the light at Chicken Rock. We sought shelter from the tide for chocolate but while rafted up the tidal race seemed to grow by the second. Jess and I moved away and in doing so I was sucked into a whirl pool with a white water centre! It had appeared from nowhere. These events caused no real problem but I had been sent this article from Orkney by a colleague who works in my former hospital. I've no idea how this paddler became unstuck but I guess there's a lesson for all of us in how quickly things can change, especially in an area as tidal as Orkney.
A few photographs from today's paddle to the Calf Sound tidal races, Isle of Man. Photos by John Scott, Jessica Egelnick and Ian Smith.