Shades of Vancouver.

The first time we were in Vancouver it poured with rain. This time we had glorious sunshine. What a difference a blue sky can make, and not just to photographs. The crowds were out in force and Vancouver displayed the vibrancy and sophistication that I thought must be there hidden behind the rain clouds. The highlights included the Old Quarter towards Gas Town and of course, Stanley Park.
I am now back home on the Isle of Man. My kayaking habits are about to change. I have given up my membership of the Adventure Club. This marks the end of an era for me as I have been a member now for several years. In future I intend to concentrate on rough water paddling, surfing and tidal races.

Salt Spring Island!!!!

Salt Spring Island is the largest of an archipelago between Vancouver Island and the Canadian mainland. The island appears wealthy as evidenced by the substantial villas along the coast and the overflowing marinas. But interspersed between the affluence is a large community of artists, and a fare scattering of dread lock capped hippies.

Geographically, it has low hills, a meandering tree lined coastline and very small shingle beaches. Perhaps it was the gray sky, or the flat calm water, but we weren't moved to paddle here, although there are plenty offering kayaking services. We found our Salt Spring in a “Local Pub” with a Diane Krall look and sound alike, and filled with locals in fancy dress.
It has been said of Salt Spring Island that it “alters your mind. Outsiders arrive intending to stay a short while and simply forget to leave”. We didn't forget to leave and in fact our departure was the highlight. We opted out of a long 5 hour ferry and bus trip back to Vancouver and chose the spectacular 25 minute seaplane flight.
I liked Salt Spring and the people we met. I liked the fact that there is no public transport and hitchhiking is the norm. Anything goes in Salt Spring Island and you feel that all are welcome, however long you stay.

Tofino, BC, Canada - kayakers' paradise.

Tofino is great. It has the perfect calm water paddles through the sheltered Clayoquot Sound. Twisting between the multitude of islands with just some current to contend with, if you time the tides right it's an effortless round trip. Alternatively head left and out to sea. The prevailing westerly winds and Pacific surf and swell build, as fewer islands protect the paddler the further west you go. Eventually, you lie exposed to everything the Pacific has to through at you, and that's allot. Add to this a maze of teeth like rocks extending far further out than you'd expect and this is full on rough sea kayaking. If you've got the gear you can make the choice. Add to this some superb surf beaches and Tofino really has everything.

But there's more. I snapped the above wildlife photos yesterday in one day ( sea lions, gray whale, bald eagle ). The scenery is stunning - the top most photograph above was taken two days ago through a pub window whilst drinking a pint of Guinness. Surely one of the best views from a pub in the world.

Finally, the people are incredibly polite, helpful and friendly. I nearly got run over two nights ago by a fella driving one of those enormous 4 x4 cars they have over here. He of course apologised and drove off. 15 minutes later he drove back and apologised again. If I have to be run over then I hope it happens during a future visit to Tofino - I'll certainly be back.

Kayak Coaches and Guides.

Here on Vancouver Island there really are two types of sea kayaking. Firstly a calm sedate paddle through stunning scenery and abundant wildlife. Secondly, an adrenaline packed fight for survival through stunning scenery and abundant wildlife. Certainly today those were the choices. Of course it depends on where you go. Trouble is, trying to persuade someone to to take you on the latter trip is impossible. Nor will they rent you the gear - I asked! This is for sound reasons, not least of which is that they want their gear back again and and really don't want you ( or more likely your relatives ) to litigate against them if you perish. There would be no point - they are commercial operations and need to turn a profit. They don't know me from the next hapless tourist who turns up and fancies a paddle.

So what's the point of these comments? Well, I just think that we should stop and appreciate what we have in the British Isles in terms of coaches. Their skills and decision making abilities are second to non in my experience. I've accompanied a UK coach into a raging Penrhyn Mawr tidal race on a number of occasions. On the Isle of Man we have Keirron Tastagh who will first make a sensible decision based on the conditions and the skill of the paddler. Ultimately he will take kayakers on that action packed paddle a few of us crave.

Kayaking in Tofino.

We arrived in Tofino yesterday after a tortuous and at times treacherous drive through mountains, lakes, forrest and over steep gradients. If possible the rain was even heavier and more persistent than previously. Tofino didn't live up to our expectations initially. We were wrong however. The fog and rain lifted today to reveal the previously cloaked forrested steep mountains and the archipelago of islands occupying the Clayoquot Sound.

We arranged kayaking and our guide, Martin, took Christina and myself on a stunning paddle through narrow gaps between the multitude of small islands. We landed and took a trek on a raised path through 1000 year old cedar forrest. The Bald Eagles and their nest were the highlights. This was a leisurely paddle, on a hot sunny day in the most stunning scenery imaginable. Even the 5 knot tides through the shallow gaps between islands seemed relaxed and sedate. This was an ideal paddle after the really quite horrendous weather we have experienced up until now. The forecast is excellent for the next few days.

Surf!

With a hire car acquired Christina and I motored northwest from Vitoria to Port Renfrew. We now entered the Canada we had both hoped and expected for. The undulating coast, carpeted in dense temperate rain forrest, interupted occasionally by quaint log cabins and large timber houses, was complemented by the high mountains visible towards Port Angeles and Seatle in the distance acreoss the San Juan de Fuca Straits. Closer to the coast the heart warming glimpse of perfectly formed surf waves caught my eye. At Jordan River we stopped to marvel at the skills of the local surfers. Unfortunately this beach was owned by the board surfers and no kayakers were to be seen; quite a spectacle never the less.

Beyond Port Renfrew is Botanical Beach where the waves were colossal. I've not witnessed surf like this before! There was no wind and the sea was calm. As at Jordan River we were lulled into thinking that it was over. The tide or breeze must have changed and the surf was gone. All of a sudden a set of massive breakers would appear preceded by the sucking dry of the beach as the sea recedes. Beach which previously had appeared safe would suddenly be engulfed by white water. The air is filled with ozone spray and the sea roares. No wonder there are "Tsunami" warning signs all along this coast!

We returned to Victoria for the night and are now in Nanaimo. We are poised for the next 5 days as we enter the wild and remote north and west of the island where I hope to kayak.

Vancouver to Victoria.

Christina and I travelled from Vancouver to Victoria on Vancouver Island today. It took a combination of taxis, ferries, and bizarrely a bus for which we bought tickets on the ferry, whilst the bus itself was also on the ferry?
Victoria is the capital of Vancouver Island. It contrasts markedly with Vancouver City. It has a low rise mixture of modern and Victorian architecture which creates a compelling combination in it's stunning harbour setting. Add to this a vibrancy we missed in Vancouver, plus the first Canadian sunshine we have seen and the scene is set for the beginning of the Island part of our trip. All this however, was spoiled by the news of the recent deaths of a number of local kayakers in a tragic sea kayaking accident. There is confusion about the circumstances, but the combination of severe weather with 7 ft waves seem to be the over riding factors in this tragedy. Sea kayaking is clearly an important sport on this island. Although much larger than the Isle of Man I really cannot begin to imagine the effect such a loss of local paddlers must be having on the community here.